The Evolution of Zardosi Embroidery From the Mughal Era to Today

Imagine shiny gold threads on velvet fabrics with beautiful weaves; that’s the magic of Zardosi embroidery. This embroidery style, once used to make fabrics for only the king and queens, is used even today for various fashion styles. Initially, Zardosi embroidery used gold and silver threads, and now it is blended with metallic threads for faster production. But how exactly did this embroidery make its way into fashion? And why is it a popular embroidery style in India? You will get to know everything about Zari Embroidery in this blog, so continue reading.

Zardosi Embroidery History

Zardosi is from two Persian words, Zar (gold) and Dozi (embroidery). This embroidery has its roots back to ancient India, but it wasn’t popular until it made its comeback in the 16th century. When it was invented, Zardosi was done using real gold and silver threads along with stones and pearls. It was a luxury that only royal and upper-class individuals could afford.

The Mughal influence on Zardosi embroidery is the main reason why India has this embroidery style even in today’s fashion. The traditional Indian fabrics were made by skilled artisans who would spend days and many weeks designing one piece of fabric. These fabrics were used to decorate everything, from garments to elephant saddles and royal tents. During the colonial rule, the embroidery style saw a decline and was much less popular, but the love for Zardosi never faded.

Evolution of Zardosi Embroidery Techniques

Traditionally, the Zardosi embroidery required a lot of labour, time, and resources. Zardosi karigars (artisans who made Zardosi embroidery) used a wooden frame (addaa) and laid a stretched fabric. The design was then traced on it, and artisans used a needle and metallic thread (usually gold or silver) to create the embroidery.

Now, the artisans thread like silk and metallic to reduce the cost while still providing the same shimmering effect of the Zardosi embroidery. There are various techniques included in Zardosi embroidery. Here are some of them:

1. Zari Work: Metallic threads are used in Zari work, which helps artisans create detailed designs on the fabric.
2. Aari Work: Aari embroidery technique is where the artisans use a hook to create chain stitches and unique patterns on the fabric. Various colors of threads are used in this Zardosi embroidery method.
3. Hand Embroidery: This is how the traditional Zardosi embroidery worked. The artisans used to work by hand, carefully weaving the fabrics with gold/silver threads and tiny decorative pieces.
4. Kundan Work: In this technique, flat and small pieces of metal or glass are used to create that gem-like sparkling effect. Sometimes, the entire fabric is woven with tiny metal or glass pieces.
5. Aari Tari Work: Aari and Tari stitches are combined to create a special and intricate design in Zardosi embroidery.
6. Gota Patti Work: Lace is used to create detailed Zardosi work with the help of silver and gold threads. It works very well for creating border and motifs in the fabrics.

Today, Zardosi embroidery is made by machines and may be mass-produced. In handcrafted vs. machine-made Zardosi embroidery designs, there is a difference in the way the fabric is stitched. Each handcrafted Zardosi fabric has a soul, and artisans work really hard to make the patterns. This makes the fabric more durable, and high-quality materials are used by skilled artisans.

On the other hand, the Zardosi embroidery made by machines is quicker to produce and is affordable because the thread and other resources are blended with low-quality materials. These fabrics do not have much detail and lack the soul of the authentic Zardosi fabric, but they have that shimmer.

Handmade Zardosi embroidery is definitely more popular and it is choosen because of the luxurious and rich details it has.

Preservation of Traditional Zardosi Craftsmanship

While the fashion world is Zardosi again, the real heroes are the artisans who are keeping the original techniques alive. They are from families who have been doing the Zardosi work for generations using old-school tools like needles, wooden frames, etc.

But continuing this Zardosi embroidery technique is not easy. With fast fashion and machine embroidery flooding the market, many artisans are struggling to find fair pay for their work. That's why government schemes and ethical fashion brands are stepping in to keep this artwork alive. They are offering training, workshops, and better wages to help traditional Zardosi artists continue their work.

Design schools are also including Zardosi in their courses and motivating the younger generation to carry it forward. Zardosi embroidery in royal and bridal fashion has now become a popular course in design schools. Exhibitions, fashion weeks, and online platforms are also helping artisans get the recognition they deserve.

Designers are also blending Zardosi with modern styles, like on jackets, belts, etc.

Future Trends in Zardosi Embroidery

Zardosi embroidery in modern haute couture

• Sustainable Zardosi
• Zardosi on Denim
• Custom Zardosi Accessories
• Fusion with Western Designs

Not just these, but Zardosi embroidery in modern haute couture is more popular becuase international designers are now using this style for their luxury collections. From red-carpet gowns to luxury designer styles, Zardosi is blending tradition with modern trends.

Conclusion

In conclusion, Zardosi embroidery’s rich history has now evolved from a royal luxury to a modern fashion style. As the demand for this embroidery style continues to grow, it is important to preserve its traditional techniques and support the artisans who keep this cultural heritage alive.